Planting Spring Bulbs


Early bulbs are much smaller and will do well planted about 3-4” deep. Top dressing with an autumn mulch keeps the ground warmer allowing for root development before the deep cold of winter sets in. This insulating mulch also protects the bulbs from quick freezes and thaws that often occur in late winter.

A generous mix of bulbs are being incorporated into any existing garden.

As the days become longer and the daytime temperatures gradually rise, the bulbs will naturally begin to emerge and start the wonderful process of sequential blooming. Since the early spring bulbs are low growing and devoid of a lot of foliage, the first flush of flowers magically appears making the early spring garden abundant in a sea of blooms–creating a breathtaking picture that can last for several days of even weeks. When one group of bulbs start to fade, another grouping takes center stage quickly filling in any vacancies in the garden.


After flowering, it is important to give them a feeding of organic fertilizer and allow the foliage to die back gradually. Later bloomers like tulips and alliums along with emerging perennials will eventually camouflage the waning bulbs. By creating a design that promotes a progression of bulbs, the garden will never be without something in bloom.

In late April and early May, tulips the grand-dames of the garden lend flirt and fancy in an abundant array of colors and shapes. Species tulips are tiny in size often blooming along with daffodils which makes them less likely to be eaten by deer. To deter rodents from eating the bulbs, use a rodent repellant or add cayenne pepper or garlic flakes to the planting hole.

Spring bulbs in a sculpture garden.

Another trick is to spray bulbs (especially tulips) with a diluted solution of old fashioned liquid lysol and let the bulbs dry completely in the sun prior to planting, The offending critters are hindered by the smell and taste of this strong smelling cleaner. Another tip from a bulb importer is to plant them in the same hole as the allium. The strong onion odor of the allium helps to keep critters away as well.

The dynamic and vertical lines of flowering onions or Alliums continue the show into June- globe-like flower of the allium may be allowed to dry in the garden, which adds texture and interest to your perennial borders. There is a multitude of allium varieties in the market–from very low growing to impressive 4‘ varieties. Alliums add an elegance and dramatic verticality to the late May and early June garden Fragrant and dramatic lilies, “the wings of the garden” take flight in late June and July. You can find a multitude of different hybrids in dazzling colors and shapes in all of these species of bulbs.

An enchanting collection of peony-flowering tulips and late daffodils in a seaside garden.

To encourage your bulb garden to flourish, select a site that has well-drained soil. If the soil needs work, start by enriching the proposed area with good top soil or compost to a depth of about 6”. Bulbs do not like to be planted in area that is usually wet–so good drainage is essential when preparing your site for a bulb garden. Plant bulbs with the pointed side up adding a tablespoon or so of an organic fertilizer that contains rock phosphate, which will ensure proper root development.

It is especially important to plant the bulb to the proper depth which is about 3-4 times the bulb’s length. For example, a tulip which is about 2” long needs to be planted about 6-8” deep. The earlier bulbs are much smaller and will do well planted about 3-4” deep. Top dressing with an autumn mulch keeps the ground warmer allowing for root development before the deep cold of winter sets in. This insulating mulch also protects the bulbs from lifting when quick freezes and thaws occur in late winter. As the days become longer and the daytime temperatures get warmer, the bulbs will naturally begin to emerge and start the wonderful process of sequential blooming. When one group of bulbs start to fade, another grouping starts to take center stage and fills in any vacancies in the garden. Since the early spring bulbs are low growing and devoid of a lot of foliage, the flowers in full bloom appear as luscious masses of color–creating a breathtaking picture that can last for several days of even weeks.

After flowering, it is important to give your bulbs a feeding of organic fertilizer because this is the time they are storing food for next year’s blooms.

Always allow the foliage to gradually die back naturally. By late June most of the foliage has completely withered and can then be safely cut down. Later bloomers like tulips and alliums along with emerging perennials will eventually camouflage the waning bulbs.

By creating a design that promotes a progression of bulbs, the garden will never be without something in bloom. At present, bulb supplies are still plentiful and you can safely plant your bulb garden right up to Thanksgiving. A warm sunny afternoon in late October or early November is the perfect time to plant your spring garden–so don’t hesitate to get out there soon!


You’re never too young to learn how to plant bulbs for the family garden!

The Serendipity of Spring Bulbs


I never feel a perennial garden is complete without the addition of spring bulbs. The wonderful serendipitous quality of bulbs make the early spring garden truly come alive — a vivid reminder that we can bid adieu to the long cold and grey of winter.

Whether you are just a beginner or a more seasoned gardener nothing will feed your soul more than a fabulous display of spring bulbs. Planted en masse, the luscious colors, subtle fragrances and long blooming flowers creates a wonderful prelude for the unfolding spring season. A carefully selected collection of spring bulbs will provide a symphony of successive blooms that will enliven your garden with many months of amazing color and fragrance.

By incorporating a mix of early, middle and late blooming bulbs, you are ensured of a display that will span several months. The early bloomers of March and April are snowdrops, crocus, Iris reticulata, Scilla, Chionodoxa followed by daffodils and hyacinths. With careful planning now, the entire month of April can be a spectacular display of flowering bulbs in a multitude of forms and a rainbow of colors.

Autumn Considerations

Divide and Conquer

September and early October are the best times to divide most perennials — these are clumps of overgrown Japanese iris that have declined in their flowering. Watch what happens…


Start by digging out the bulky clump.


A tarp is helpful to use as you are working.


Divide each clump into halves and then divide those halves into fourths – keep dividing until you have smaller divisions that are about 3-4″ wide.


This original overgrown clump created 16 new iris plants that will produce a much healthier plant and beautiful flowers next June.


When planting any new perennial, dig a hole about twice the size of the plant — add organic fertilizers to the bottom of the planting hole.


Replant each division into a larger hole that has been amended with fertilizer and topped off with generous amounts of good garden compost.


Top dress the entire area around the planting hole with compost and then water well.


Water each new division well–Japanese iris demand  rich, moist acid soil — remember to divide you perennials every 3-4 years to get them healthy and thriving and they will reward you with wonderful flowers throughout the growing season.

Spring’s Instant Unexpected Color

Early Spring Perennials always provides some instant unexpected color for your

Usually in early April, somewhere between the waning blooms of daffodils and before
the massive display of May flowers, early bloomers such as candytuft, phlox subulata,
forget-me-nots and leopardsbane fill a nice spot in the garden. Subtle, petite and
unobtrusive, they can still make a commanding presence in soft spring-like tones
covering the otherwise barren ground with unexpected color. Even though they tend to
be fleeting, these delicate beauties deserve a special place in your perennial garden.
They are an exceptional addition to spring bulbs as the color complement and reinforce
each other.

Of special significance are the spring ephemerals such as Virginia bluebells, trillium,
mayapple, trout lily and bloodroot. They create little niches in the garden once the soil
start to warm, emerging from dormancy and flooding the garden with soft pastel colors.
Growing quickly, they burst almost overnight into flower, providing pollen and nectar for
an abundance of early insects such as bee, flies, and early bumblebees. After flowering
these plants quickly fade and form seed before gradually go dormant. Once dormant, it
is important to mark where they are in the garden and protect their roots from damage
during the busy gardening months of the summer.

With little encouragement, these early spring stalwarts will return and multiply each year
during a time when little else is blooming. They are the perfect companion to native
ferns and hostas.

Early Spring Bloomers No Garden Should Be Without

Since the winter has been so mild we are now seeing lots of early blooming shrubs along with all the tiny early spring bulbs emerging through sodden soil and snow. As the days lengthen, the sun warms the soil allowing buds to swell and unfurl opening several weeks earlier this year. These shrubs along with spring bulbs are tenacious and resilient even when night temperatures suddenly drop and the days can be grey and windy. These shrubs and bulbs can be unobtrusive in a lovely range of pastel colors with forms that grace our early spring landscape in their subtleness and unexpected blooms.

As an added bonus, these early bloomers will continue to flower for several weeks as the cooler temperatures will evolve into warmer days. We can expect several more weeks of blooms with these unique plants—all the more reason to plan adding some of these delightful plants for your late winter/early spring garden next year.

House Plants Bring the Garden Inside

When it is cold and grey outside, house plants can truly enliven your home bringing the essence of the garden inside.



For the most part, we are home-dwellers in the Winter. For that reason, it is important to use house plants to infuse our interiors with vitality and fresh energy. House plants inject a lightness and vibrancy into the home improving air quality by increasing oxygen levels, removing toxins from the air and above all enhancing the quality of life by adding a healthy green ambiance to all the rooms in your home.

When selecting house plants, consider matching the right plants to the right growing conditions. A south or west facing window works well for sun lovers. Consider jasmine, amaryllis, aloe and jade plants. For low light areas, begonias, ferns, ivy and the indestructible aspidistra all work well.

Proper watering is essential — most house plants need to dry out well prior to watering. Keeping them on a consistent watering schedule is important. Aim to water once a week. Overwatering is the death to most plants as it leads to yellowing leaves, bug infestations, root rot and moldy soil. Moisture loving plants such as ferns, ivy and Spathiphylum (peace lily) and primrose will require more water and should not be allowed to dry out. Placing them in a tray of pebbles filled with water will help keep them consistently moist. Increase the humidity around your plants by misting the foliage every few days but remember misting does not replace regular watering.

As the sun becomes stronger in February, start fertilizing your plants about once a month with an organic liquid fertilizer. Monty’s liquid plant food is a wonderful fertilizer that is well balanced and slow releasing.

The range of house plants available is very abundant and exciting. Once you understand the light conditions of your house, you can select plants that will adapt and fill a particular space or window sill bringing delight and wonder for many years.

Evergreens in the Winter Garden

snow1In Winter, when the landscape looks barren and devoid of life, evergreens really come alive, adding dramatic scale and balance. When most of the shrubs and perennials have wilted under mounds of snow, the elegance and majesty of evergreens add depth, volume and structure to the garden–providing the stability and bones to our otherwise empty landscapes.

A mature hedge of evergreens not only provides privacy but also a sense of enclosure and permanence at a time when the outside is not always very inviting and hospitable.

With a plethora of varieties to choose from, it is important to consider the overall shape and size the evergreen will become at maturity. A wonderful winter landscape can be created by mixing differing varieties of evergreens in terms of size, shape, texture and color. For instance, a tall blue spruce becomes more vivid and commanding when flanked by gold-toned evergreens — the contrast becomes striking and dynamic. This can also be true with subtle color shifts in evergreens — a long hedge of various chamaecyparis with contrasting colors and textures can be dramatic and beautiful in every season.

Consider the importance of including evergreens into your landscape especially this spring when shopping for new plantings. By looking at your landscape now, you may be pleasantly inspired to find places where evergreens will really enliven your winter garden next year.

Trees in the Winter Landscape


The Winter landscape is a time of reprieve. Devoid of the finery of leaves, trees reveal their raw beauty. Arching limbs flow with the prevailing winds, while always reaching upward into an ever-changing sky.

The overall landscape seems to flatten out and look barren especially under a fresh coating of snow. This pared-down landscape lends a feeling of solitude and harmony — a time of reflection when we can fully appreciate the structural elements of established trees.

Every species of tree has its own unique shape and form — these architectural elements become vivid and revealing in the winter months. In their bare-bones loveliness, the essence of form, branch structure, growth patterns, and bark textures are readily visible.

In the eagerness of spring, we go to garden centers to select a tree for our property. For the most part, we are draw to the immediacy to those in abundant flower and color. But remember, it is important to think how the tree will look in all four seasons. In the grand stillness of winter, careful study now will allow you to see a potential tree for your property. You may be pleasantly inspired to view that springtime selection with a more critical and refined eye.


Winter Protection: Post-Holiday in the Garden


The best use of your holiday tree is to cut up the branches and use them to mulch your garden, especially for your tender plants such as roses. I insert the evergreen branches upright into the soil in a circular manner around each plant so that the roots and stems of the rose are completely protected. This is especially important during the freezing and thawing periods of the winter months when plants tend to lift, exposing the crowns and roots to freezing conditions. Securing them with evergreen branches keeps them better protected and in a dormant state all winter.

We were all disappointed by no hydrangeas flowers last summer. Rather than leave them exposed to the whims of this winter and the potential of deep cold in early Spring, I suggest spraying your hydrangeas (along with other fussier shrubs such as boxwood, roses, rhododendrons etc.) with an anti-desiccant spray such as WiltPruf or Transfilm. These sprays help plants retain moisture, sealing moisture in from the drying bitter cold winds of winter. It is important to reapply these sprays every 3-4 weeks during the winter season. Always apply when the daytime temperature is above 40 degrees. But don’t be fooled by those warmer temperatures— March 2016 was warming nicely and then we were hit with three nights of below 20 degrees in April killing all the emerging hydrangea buds.

For extra insurance, I am wrap my hydrangea shrubs in burlap early this January. I will first spray the bud tips with WiltPruf and then will wrap each shrub with burlap securing the entire plant with hemp twine to keep the burlap in place all winter. Generally, I remove this wrapping in late March when the weather starts to gradually warm. But after last years unexpected April fiasco, I may wait until Easter.